If you’ve seen Under the Tuscan Sun, Cortona comes to mind. But of course, there is so much more to this beautiful town than just that. Perched up on a hilltop, the views are just amazing. Stop by Piazza Garibaldi and peak into Umbria. From there you can see across the valley and the edge of Lake Trasimeno. There is a great maze of streets with interesting bits of history, great shops, and restaurants all over town. It’s easy to understand why Frances Mayes fell in love with Cortona.
Getting there and around town –
If you’re coming from Montepulciano, Cortona is about 45 minutes. Close enough for a day trip to the historic town center. The roads in between are actually some of the flattest you’ll drive on in the area, which also helps make this an easy trip.
- If you drive, parking is a bit of a challenge as with most towns. As you will find all over, you have ZTLs, so you will not be able to drive right into the center of town. And the walk from the parking lots can be quite steep. If anyone in your group has mobility difficulties, you will want to drop them off at the turnaround in Piazza Garibaldi. This doesn’t save them from the inclines in town, but it will help before your day gets going.
- Some of what you want to see in Cortona is on the outskirts of town. Plan stop either before or after you park as you can’t easily walk from them to the center of town.
What to see –
- Basilica di Santa Margherita (Piazzale Santa Margherita 1, about 10 minutes outside of town) – Though a somewhat small basilica (by Italian standards) the interior is beautiful. The work on the ceilings, is worth the crick in your neck to really take in. The story of Santa Margherita and her path to Cortona is also worth taking the time to discover. Though you can walk here from town, it’s challenging. There is parking available, so it makes sense to stop before going into town for the day.
- The MAEC of Cortona (Piazza Signorelli, 9 just off the piazza) – This museum of course has quite a bit on the Etruscans, but also goes into detail about the history of Cortona and the surrounding area. Audio tours are available through the izi.TRAVEL app with tours available in English. It’s open 10 -7pm, 7 days a week from April to October and tickets can be purchased the day you attend.
- Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza Signorelli (Center of town) – Both Piazzas are really the center of town and are just steps from each other. Spending time in each gives you a sense of the history of Cortona as well as gives you a chance to sit back and take it all in. If you’re a fan of Under the Tuscan sun, you will recognize both from the movie. Although unfortunately the fountain from the movie doesn’t actually exist in Piazza Signorelli.
Where to eat –
- Breakfast – Breakfast at your hotel probably makes the most sense. Many things in town will open after 10am, so you don’t have to hit the road early if you wan to take the time to relax.
- Lunch – Taverna Pane e Vino (Piazza Signorelli, 27, just a few steps off the piazza) Tucked away in a 14th century cellar, this casual and cozy restaurant is super welcoming. It’s classic Tuscan food, but also some dishes you might not have seen before. If the Tuscan pastrami is available – get it! You won’t be disappointed. And for the wine lovers, they specialize in small winemakers with over 900 labels available.
- Dinner – Trattoria Toscana (Via Dardano 12, just a 2 minute walk from Piazza Signorelli) Another classic Tuscan restaurant, but isn’t that what you traveled all the way to Tuscany for? They have wonderful homemade pasta, beautiful Fiorentina steak, and end with delicious vinsanto & cantucci. Since it’s small and very popular, definitely try to make a reservation before you go.
- Gelato – Gelateria Snoopy (Piazza Signorelli, 29, on the piazza) Perfect location with delicious gelato! They have all the classic flavors, as well as great seasonal options. Their dark chocolate is amazing, so if you’re a chocolate fan that’s a can’t miss. Once you pick your gelato walk just a few minutes to Piazza della Repubblica, sit on the steps, and watch the world go by.
Where to shop –
As with so many of the small, hilltop towns in the area, there is great shopping in Cortona as well. Here are a few of our favorites.
- Tuscan Flowers (Camucia via Gramsci 28,) – the best home scents you will find, all handmade & natural
- Artigianato Lorenzini (Vis Nazionald, 58) – lots of home décor options, but really known for all their olive wood creations
- Officina Profumo – Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella (Piazza Pescheria, 2) – The perfume of the Medici’s. The original store is in Firenze, but wonderful to have a boutique in Cortona
- Bottega Baracchi (Via Nazionale, 78) – unique home décor and beautiful Busatti linens
Do you have more than one day planned for Cortona or maybe want to add an activity to your time in the area? Here are some of our favorites, very close to town.
- Villa Bramasole (Località Torreone, 151, just about a mile outside of town) – The Villa resorted by author Frances Mayes is not an attraction per se. As it’s her residence, you can’t go into it, but if you’re a fan of Under the Tuscan Sun, it’s worth the stop when you’re heading in or out of town.
- Just about 25 minutes outside of town is Castiglione del Lago on Lake Trasimeno. This is a great little town but is definitely just a half day trip. There are cute shops and great views of the lake. It’s worth the trip just to have lunch (or even an aperitivo) at L’Angolo del Buon Gustaio (Via Vittorio Emanuele, 40). Anything you get is going to be great, but if you love steak tartare, don’t miss it here. They have it offered with different accompaniments than other restaurants, so you’re bound to find a combination you love.
There’s so much to love in Cortona. It will feel familiar to the other hilltop towns close by, but it also has a vibe all it’s own. No matter what you plan for your day in Cortona, as always, make sure to sit and take it all in to really get to know the town.
